Ahimsa Silk
Image from our Photo Journal
As more companies attempt to find trending ethical and sustainable alternatives, many are quick to announce the discovery of new innovative methods. However, consumers should be wary and understand the entire process, as companies may not provide enough transparency. A look at how companies illustrate ahimsa silk will reveal that there is much MORE TO UNRAVEL.
a cautionary tale for ethical and eco-conscious consumers
Silk has always been a high-quality luxury fibre that is known for its softness. Originating in China in the middle of the 3rd millennium BCE, silk quickly dominated trade and led to the creation of the Silk Road.
Silk is still produced in the current era, where products are manufactured at a rapid and significant rate. Silk farming currently involves harvesting a huge number of silk cocoons, however, the silk production itself causes the death of the pupae involved. During the process, the pupae inside the cocoon are usually killed either by steaming or boiling with sericin. It prevents the silkworm moth from hatching and completely destroys the silk cocoon. Many people have been protesting against this cruel method of production and have attempted to develop alternative methods for high-quality silk.
Ahimsa silk, or peace silk, claims that it harvests silk without killing the pupae. While this method seems better than the alternative, there are other consequences to consider. After a female moth hatches, it lays an average of 500 eggs, of which most require refrigeration to hatch. Once the eggs hatch, the caterpillars will die unless they are fed immediately. However, most of the silkworms in India that are used in Ahimsa silk have multivoltine strains, meaning that the eggs do not go through refrigeration. The eggs will hatch within two weeks and will need to be fed within a day of hatching. Realistically, it would be impossible to feed all of them.
According to retailers, 25% of Ahimsa silk is composed of breeder cocoons, which is regular silk where breeders kill the pupae. Some companies refer to their Ahimsa silk as "wildcrafted," meaning that the silk is cruelty-free and organic. However, they are being harvested despite being out in the wild, which is almost the same as being farmed. There is a degree of freedom, but reproduction is still regulated. Many companies try to use these phrases to greenwash consumers into thinking that their silk production is more ethical.
Thus, the theory behind peace silk could appear to be engaging - however, the truth despite the fact that the silkworms are 'set free' from the cocoon they are still slain in the process. Looking into the production process of fabrics and fibres and considering the impact that the industry has on a larger scale and being well informed is something consumers can consider. Buying from smaller local brands with shared values; is for me a high priority when making any purchase.
During our workshops, we see first-hand how the indigenous Black Thai Tribe of Vietnam uses ancient techniques for silk making. Natural plant softeners and natural dyes combine to create the most wonderful silk threads that are then woven into the most magical textiles.
Reference: wormspit.com/peacesilk.htm